Yesterday I woke up in my clean hotel room, ate some cereal and prepared to go to the Kyrgyz Consulate. I had looked up vague directions on Lonely Planet’s Thorntree message board and went down to the front desk. I asked where the street was, they didn’t know. I asked where the big hotel nearby was, they didn’t know. I asked which bus to take, they didn’t know. Finally I had to break down and take a taxi to the Hua Ling Benguan which the taxi driver knew.
The bus is only 1 Y and the taxi cost 13 Y but the extra money was worth the lack of frustration. Once inside I was greeted in English and was escorted outside by a very nice woman who showed me the path to the consulate. The problem is that there is no evidence in Kyrgyz web sites that it exists and all guidebooks say it doesn’t. But it does exist and many people had confirmed this to me before I left. Inside, the officers spoke English and offered me a visa in 3 days for $112 or 5 days for $56. After a long look at my calendar I decided to take the cheaper, longer visa application because I had time.
Most people are in a real hurry to get out of Urumqi but I am still sick and could use the time to work on my photos. Also, if I did the quick visa process I would get my visa on a Friday afternoon and have to leave for Kashgar right away to see the Sunday market and catch the Monday bus to Osh, Kyrgyzstan. What’s the point of hurrying to get to Kashgar when I’m sick and will have no time to relax? So I will need to pick up my visa on August 2nd. As for the week in-between (It’s taking even longer because of the weekend), I may just stay here in Urumqi watching DVDs and walking around or I may go out to “Heavely Lake” for a few days. I have to sit down, figure out bus schedules and decide if I’m heading by train directly to Kashgar or if I will stop in Kuqa along the way.
After applying for my visa I headed off to the East side of town where David had marked a massage place on my map. I found it without much trouble, and paid 45 yuan (10 more than he said he pays, but they wouldn’t budge) for 90 minutes. That’s under $6! It was the hardest massage I’ve ever had and he really got into my back muscles. All of the Chinese massages I’ve had are fully clothed with a sheet used over the area being worked on. Fingers, elbows and fists were used and at some points he was just punching my legs. My back must have been pretty bad because at the end he had me turn over again to work on my back for a bit, which is not typical. After carrying my heavy bag around, especially for as long as I did the day before, the massage was not a luxory, it was a neccesity. In fact, I think I will try to get back there again at least once because I’m sure more work could be done on my back before I face the long bus rides in Central Asia.
8 responses to “One Much-Needed Massage”
Yay I can’t wait to hear about Kyrgyzstan!
Oh, a massage. Even a brutal one sounds like such a good luxury to indulge in! Too bad you didn’t travel with your own personal Iris! 😉
I hope you feel better soon.
ps…I’m going to quit in less than two weeks and do temping for a while…just thought you should know. It’s all rather exciting but nothing compared to going to a mythical place. 😉
OC, when are you going, next spring?
I wonder if massage therapists give their family massages a lot. I think if I were one I would refuse.
Ali, I think you should do what will make you happy. And those people are a little too unorganized for my tastes. That can make anyone unhappy.
Megan, you are so right about refusing to give my family massages…C. may get a few minutes of “poking” at a time but rarely does she get a full massage. I’m tired after doing them all day at work!
Your pictures are almost as gorgeous as you are. Take care.
Thanks Dis.
I got another massage today and the lady was really nice. She was less rough than the last guy but I still had to bite my tongue at times. I asked for 1 hour in Chinese but she still gave me 90 minutes. I don’t know if it’s the standard thing, she wanted to make more money or if she touched my back and decided to keep going. I did point to my shoulders and say “bu how” which means “bad” and when she touched my back in response she grimaced. I think it’s like a medical climic because last time some guy was in a room getting those steamed glass cups on his back.
Hey sounds like a good trip! Anyways, can you help me locate this hidden Kyrgyz consulate in Urumqi? Even a url for the thorntree thread you found it with would be great! Also, have you heard of the small consulate in a town outside Kashgar. Do you know anything about this one? Seriously, I know I found your site rather late, but I could use some help big time.
JoshP
Josh,
Okay, check out this post here:
https://www.me-go.net/blog/2006/08/04/kyrgyz-consulate-revealed/
I even included photos! I don’t have the address down there but I don’t really think it would be of too much help because the Chinese taxis won’t understand if it’s written in English anyway. But if you need it I can search for the LP entry with it in it.
Let me know if it helps!
Oh, and I haven’t heard of this other mysterious out of town consulate. David (who’s site and address is linked in the post above) still lives in Urumqi so you can ask him. But since he lives there he doesn’t deal with embassies as much.